The prize was courtesy of the fun Mid-Autumn Festival Dice Game organized by the kind folks (and my good friends) at #ChinoyLife, a volunteer community based in Binondo and its environs— where some of my relatives and ancestors also grew up— dedicated to preserving Chinese-Filipino culture.
Realizing that an overnight stay would not suffice to properly take in the sights, sounds, food, the chinoiserie, and heritage—and yes, the chaos, crowds, and encroaching modernity—of the oldest Chinatown in the world, even if I’ve been there more times than I can count, I decided to extend my stay.
I made it part of a full-blown, one-week holiday staycation in the City of Manila for some proper mind-clearing and rest, never mind if the so-called Ever Loyal City has been increasingly lost to blight, neglect and mismanagement. And what does one do during a couple of days’ stay in Binondo? Go on a food crawl, of course!
China Lanzhou Beef Noodles
(520 Quintin Paredes Street, Binondo, Manila. For store hours, call 09693590000)
My first night in Binondo led me to China Lanzhou Beef Noodles, just a few steps from my hotel, which opened only sometime last year.
While I initially came for a hearty bowl of hand-pulled noodles, I was gently—and quite nicely—inveigled into trying their eat-all-you-can dim sum and noodle offer for only P399. I was beyond peckish, and it did sound like a good deal, so I gave an easy yes—a decision I did not regret.
I started with a flavorful beef noodle soup with wide, hand-pulled noodles, which I paired with siopao (one can also go for other noodle widths). From there, I had some fried rice accompanied by various dumpling orders and a pork dish. While I was far too stuffed to have dessert, I washed everything down with a bottle of Sprite from China.
Overall, I would say that my meal was excellent value for money, with nothing that felt like a letdown.
The restaurant’s interiors were well-lit and clean, with an open kitchen that put all the action in full view. The staff were friendly as well. I would suggest, however, that you bring your family or friends along to fully enjoy the experience.
Apologue Coffee & Pastry
(934 Benavidez Street, Binondo, Manila. Open daily from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m.)
When one thinks of Chinatown, one might instantly think of enjoying a good cup of tea—both the drink and, well, gossip? But if you’re in the mood for a proper cup of coffee, I skip the franchise outlets and head straight to Apologue Coffee & Pastry, which has been my go-to spot in the area since discovering it during the pandemic.
With its minimalist yet cozy, wood-lined interiors accented by photographs from Anson Yu, Apologue is often frequented by Gen Zs—but that shouldn’t stop anyone from dropping by to try their coffees (a latte for me), their other Binondo-inspired drinks (Binondo Lite—sticky ube with milk), and of course, their pastries and baked goods.
There’s also a loft with large glass windows that appears to serve as a baking prep area, which suggests that many of their offerings are made in-house—and fresh.
Arthur Z Restaurant
(933 Fernandez Street corner Ongpin, Sta. Cruz, Manila Manila. For store hours, call 09565928725)
Tucked away on an almost hidden side street (Fernandez) on the other side of Ongpin Street—near Plaza Sta. Cruz and the Sta. Cruz Church—is Arthur Z., one of the lesser-known names in Chinatown’s bustling dining scene.
If you’re willing to gloss over ambiance (it’s casual, no-frills dining) and focus instead on the food, this spot is well worth exploring for authentic yet affordable Chinese cuisine.
Once again, it’s best to bring family or friends so you can order and share several dishes.
On this visit, I had their Baktaw (a squid dish) and Mapo Tofu—the latter a personal favorite that I order wherever I get the chance. While I should have tried their oyster cake, which a friend highly recommended after a recent visit, I nonetheless did clean-up my plate. In other words, I left pleased.
From hand-pulled noodles and specialty coffee to quietly excellent neighborhood restaurants, it’s no surprise that Binondo is a food-lovers must-visit destination in the Metro.
(Part 2 of this continuing feature is a food crawl of Malate, Manila)
Features Reporter
